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ZIP System


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By John in Raeford, NC on 2/3/2007


Has anyone used the ZIP System for wall and roof sheeting? If so how did it go with the framer did he have probelms with it?
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By Michael Penn in Dripping Springs, TX on 2/4/2007


What is the ZIP system?  Is that a brandname for a sheathing product, or a connection or attachment system?
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By John in Raeford, NC on 2/5/2007


ZIP System is made by Huber it is a no felt needed or House Wrap needed sheeting system; it looks great.

 
huberwood.com/zip

 

 


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By Jeff in Provo, UT on 2/6/2007


It definitely looks interesting.  They say that it is "Recognized by 2003 IRC & IBC (ESR-1474) as a water-resistive barrier."

Any idea on cost?

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By John in Raeford, NC on 2/6/2007


Not yet, a Builder told me it was more than the old system of OSB and House Wrap. But you save on the installation side so it is close to break even.
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By Kenneth in Lees Summit, MO on 2/6/2007


Coming from the same makers as Advantech, right away I give it a thumbs up as something worth looking at and not merely a new product that is an answer to questions no one is asking.

Looking at the website, it would appear you still would need some housewrap, at least around windows and doors?  On a typical window installation, the tyvek wraps around the window or door frame and is nailed on the inside, this system doesn't appear to offer any provisions to do this.  Also doesn't a normal (or good) Tyvek installation actually go over the top of the top plates to fully isolate and protect the wall - again this offers no provision to accomplish this. 

And lastly, Tyvek overlaps like shingles going down a wall.  In my mind, any moisture barrier should do this.  Taping joints provides a seam.  Think about it, if you are going out in a rainstorm you wouldn't tuck your slicker into your pants and your pants into your boots.  You want your slicker to go over your pants, and your pants to go over your boots.


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By Joe in Ruskin, FL on 2/7/2007


Hi Kenneth,

In theory, I agree with your logic relative to overlaps and joints where product meets as well as places like windows.  It is a good basic logic you are following.  However, technology has advanced to a point where many adhesives can make a joint so strong that it in fact becomes stronger than the original material.  For instance, there is a new moisture flashing that is a rubber like material with an adhesive backing, the name of it escapes me right now, but the adhesive strength is amazing and does not deteriorate over time.  The glue does not dry out.  In addition to that, the rubberized coating actually acts as an additional sealant for nail and screw holes.  Accordingly, the tape could prove to be the strongest point for this product.

Not to say that the sheets of this product are any better than Tyvek but, as soon as you start putting the exterior panels or wood over Tyvek, etc. you start nailing or screwing them in.  I do not believe that Tyvek has any self sealing qualities.  For that matter, as you are nailing the Tyvek up, you are punching holes in the product that can create potential spots for leakage of air and moisture.

I am just not sure that there is any perfect envelope product out there.  All have their inherent advantages and disadvantages as far as I am concerned.  The idea is just to find the one that you feel most comfortable with which is within your budget.

Just my two cents worth and if anyone else has a different thought, please jump in.  I always look forward to hearing other opinions of my thoughts both good and bad -- it keeps my mind working.

Joe H


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By Kenneth in Lees Summit, MO on 2/7/2007


I am aware of the adhesive based flashing tapes, I used them on my house (but then I also didn't do much to the minimum).  These are pretty tough, and appear to be self-sealing, I was impressed with the material.  It really reminded me of peel-and-stick ice and water shield you use as underlayment on your roof (or you should, if you are in an area subject to ice damming which in FL you are not - however it also has practical application in hurricane areas too), but in a more manageable size for window flashing.  I used alot of it, I still have a couple of partial rolls.

That said, there are other house wrap materials I would select before I would use Tyvek.  However there are no housewrap materials that are without issue, and improper installation of even the best materials yields no benefits.  Perhaps this is the true value of the advantech offering, as I have seen many times that the installers don't truly understand the proper techniques to install materials.  Easier installation by the non-English speaking crowd perhaps leads to a better product for the final consumer, not like they get paid much for their time though which is why builders like Tyvek (the material is cheap).  Pay a union carpenter to install it, and the Advantech product likely becomes a cost savings.

The biggest problem with Tyvek (and all housewraps) is that any improper installations get covered up and are not visible until many years later when other problems manifest themselves.


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By Joe in Ruskin, FL on 2/8/2007


You are right about installation being a key, particularly where it is not visible.  Early signs of failure where the product is not out in the open just further complicate the problems.  You are also right about the roofing material applying even here in Florida where we do not have ice issues but more importantly heavy water issues.

On my flat roof, which will be doubling as a deck, I plan to use the peel and stick at all of the roof  sip panel joints and around the perimeter.  Then I am planning to use a liquid membrane product that has an additional top coat specifically designed as a traffic coat so it can be used as a deck.  In addition to that, in areas where the furniture will be placed, I plan to use an indoor outdoor artificial turf style product as an extra barrier against chair or table leg movement possible causing a tear in the roofing membrane.

Joe H


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By Dale in Richland, AZ on 2/8/2007


A word of caution regarding the "turf-style" carpet. Make sure that it doesn't hold water or you may be compromising the coating system from continued damp conditions. And if it isn't glued down you will eventually have an accumulation of sand and dirt between the carpet and roof coating acting like a giant piece of abrasive paper.

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By Joe in Ruskin, FL on 2/9/2007


Great points Dale,

Although I had considered the drainage and dampness side, I had not considered the potential of sand and dirt relative to the abrasive paper effect.  Particularly on the water, you are very right about how quickly the sand could accumulate.

Joe H


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By Dale in Richland, AZ on 2/9/2007


You might want to consider some other options. They make  non-slip coatings for traffic areas they would stand up to the abuse you are thinking . Other direction of thinking would be to build a deck of plastic lumber. That will stand up to everything and would protect the roof coatings.

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By Lori in Reno, NV on 2/9/2007


Kenneth,

You said, " there are other house wrap materials I would select before I would use Tyvek".

We planned on going with stucco, but due to the cost we can't unless we go over budget and I refuse to do that. So what house wrap or extra insulation do suggest we use under Hardi siding?


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By Jerry in Lee's Summit, MO on 3/17/2007


Wanted to pass along some local pricing info from this week.  Probably won't go this way but wanted to share:

Zip Wall 4x8: $9.68/sheet

Zip Wall 4x9: $11.79/sheet

Zip Wall 4x10: $12.28/sheet

Zip Roof (4x8 size only): $12.52/sheet

Zip Tape is $321.25 per carton, and it was estimated I needed 3 cartons.  Also note the Zip Tape gun is ~$250 each, and is required for a warranted installation.

There is currently a $5/sheet rebate from Huber, up to a $500 total for builders until the end of June.

Point of reference locally: OSB 4x8: $6.95/sheet ($5.98 at HD & Lowe's)


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