From $9.95


Statistics

Users
Total: 32,898
Visited Last 30 days: 229
Forum Messages
Total: 20,966
Last 30 days: 7
Forum Evaluations
Total: 24,160
Last 30 days: 0
Journal Entries
Total: 5,400
Last 30 days: 10
Connections
Total: 15,247
Last 30 days: 4
Downloads
Total: 87,196

Journals

Name
NorthShoreBathrooms
6 Visits | 1 Posts | 2 Pix | 0 Videos
Tenants-Right-When-S... Maryland, MD
584 Visits | 5 Posts | 4 Pix | 0 Videos
furnacerepairon St Catharines, AL
26 Visits | 1 Posts | 9 Pix | 0 Videos
furnacemkm Markham, AL
25 Visits | 1 Posts | 7 Pix | 0 Videos
vallejocleaningservi... Vallejo , CA
24 Visits | 1 Posts | 1 Pix | 0 Videos
getpestcontrol Delhi, AL
32 Visits | 1 Posts | 1 Pix | 0 Videos
noithattrieugia tphcm, AL
48 Visits | 1 Posts | 0 Pix | 0 Videos
httpownerbuilderbook...
114 Visits | 1 Posts | 0 Pix | 0 Videos
Packers-and-Movers Delhi, AL
373 Visits | 2 Posts | 1 Pix | 0 Videos
Best-Access-Doors Jackson, AL
163 Visits | 1 Posts | 0 Pix | 0 Videos
Concrete-Contractors...
225 Visits | 2 Posts | 0 Pix | 0 Videos
bird Springfield, MO
166 Visits | 1 Posts | 0 Pix | 0 Videos
Tanglewood Colorado Springs, CO
120,351 Visits | 1,004 Posts | 2,581 Pix | 47 Videos
Drywall-Repair-Lehi
241 Visits | 1 Posts | 0 Pix | 0 Videos
ianpundt
277 Visits | 1 Posts | 0 Pix | 0 Videos
Magic-Of-The-SideSto... San Carlos, CA
604 Visits | 2 Posts | 2 Pix | 0 Videos
httpswwwfaxitfastcom... salt lake city, AL
249 Visits | 1 Posts | 0 Pix | 0 Videos
Owning-My-First-Prop... Grand Rapids, MI
355 Visits | 1 Posts | 0 Pix | 0 Videos
movers-and-packers Hyderabad, AL
349 Visits | 1 Posts | 1 Pix | 0 Videos
Investment-Propertie... Rochester, MN
400 Visits | 1 Posts | 0 Pix | 0 Videos
See all journals...

Current Top-Rated Posters

RatingPosts
Lance in Buena Vista, CO0.002

I just discovered the ownerbuilderbook website this morning - excellent source of info.
Jeff in Tucson, AZ

Try one of our new Construction Bargain Strategies for free. Coupon code: CBS. One strategy could save you $1,000 or $10,000 or maybe $50,000 when you build or remodel.
25,000 pages of free owner-builder resources.  We accept no ads.

Sealing service penetrations


Filter by date: and/or Keyword



Reply... Subscribe to this topic


Ed's Forum Posts: 6

Private Message


Randomly Selected Image

Login to Vote

By Ed in Des Moines, IA on 12/5/2006


My foundation walls are ICF.  I have used the Platon dimple fabric to cover the walls.  Foundation is covered to protect against frost, but am now at a point where I need to backfill further and therefore cover my service penetrations.  All penetrations have all been made using sch 40 PVC and are typically flush with the outside edge of the foam wall, though a few extend a few inches out.  Do I just cut an ample sized hole in the dimple fabric to allow my service through and then seal it up with spray foam as was suggested by my ICF supplier or should I be doing something a bit more elaborate?


Reply...

2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010 Merit Award Winner
Contributing Editor

Kenneth's Forum Posts: 937
Interview Answers: 181

Private Message


Randomly Selected Image

Login to Vote

By Kenneth in Lees Summit, MO on 12/6/2006


When I did mine, I removed most of the PVC prior to running the services through the wall.  I just filled it with expanding foam.

If it is too late to remove the PVC pipe as your services are already run (and if you are backfilling and covering them up, I suppose they probably already are), then I would try to cut the PVC as flush with the wall as possible and again just fill it with spray foam.  There is potential for leakage between the concrete and the PVC pipe.

If it is not too late to remove the pipes, I found the easiest tool was a set of channel lock pliers - basically just grab and twist.  This removes the potential for leakage between the concrete and the PVC pipe as there isn't really any way to get a sealant in there, and the concrete didn't really "bond" with the PVC to prevent a leak from occuring.


Reply...

2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010 Merit Award Winner
Contributing Editor

Kenneth's Forum Posts: 937
Interview Answers: 181

Private Message


Randomly Selected Image

Login to Vote

By Kenneth in Lees Summit, MO on 12/6/2006


With the Platon, your wall won't be under hydrostatic pressure anyway so if the PVC sleeves are not removed it isn't a big deal there either. Are you using a waterproofing besides Platon? Most people I have talked to using dimple board (of which Platon is simply one brand) use this as a secondary protection, and not the primary waterproofing.
Reply...


Ed's Forum Posts: 6

Private Message


Randomly Selected Image

Login to Vote

By Ed in Des Moines, IA on 12/6/2006


Code indicates that all penetrations are to be sleeved.  Your point about the inability for the PVC to bond to the concrete is intriguing, though.  I am not using waterproofing besides Platon, as the manufacturer's web site indicates that it is not necessary and I was told that it was a waste of time and money.  If I had to do it over again, though, I likely would have used a peel and stick under the Platon.  The fact that I am using it alone down to the top of the footing means placing heavy reliance on the form-a-drain never clogging up.  I am planning on using a peel and stick over the top of the Platon (which terminates several inches below grade) up to about 6" over grade - not sure why the manufacturer recommends sealing the top of the Platon when you use the peel and stick over the top edge anyway.  I haven't yet backfilled high enough to have to do this quite yet, but this is the plan.  Then, I will be applying a synthetic stucco over the peel and stick for the aesthetics, and will apply siding of some sort to be determined where that should begin.  Someone else suggested that I use the peel and stick over the penetrations, beginning with a 12"x12" square of the stuff, cutting a slit in it halfway up, rough cutting a hole in it perhaps an inch smaller than the penetration, and then forming it around the penetration.  The suggestion also indicated that I could take another section of the stuff, but this time place it 180° offset from the first one.  This seems to be better than just foam alone, but I am open to ideas.
Reply...

2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010 Merit Award Winner
Contributing Editor

Kenneth's Forum Posts: 937
Interview Answers: 181

Private Message


Randomly Selected Image

Login to Vote

By Kenneth in Lees Summit, MO on 12/6/2006


So you sleeved all penetrations with the correct size PVC prior to the pour?  Lets use electrical service for example, I just tossed a 3" Sch 40 PVC pipe scrap in there, knowing the electrician would use either a 2" or 2-1/2" conduit between the meter box and the electrical panel.  I pulled out the PVC pipe scrap after the pour, the electrician put in his conduit, and I foamed the gaps.  The whole thing got waterproofed (I used a water-based trowel on waterproofing).  I opted not to use dimple board as secondary waterproofing method as I had confidence in my trowel-on waterproofing, I have larger overhangs than most (minimum 2', some as high as 8'), and my grading and management of stormwater is correct.  So far no problems, but since my footing tile drains stay completely dry I probably wouldn't have problems without waterproofing.
Reply...


Ed's Forum Posts: 6

Private Message


Randomly Selected Image

Login to Vote

By Ed in Des Moines, IA on 12/6/2006


Yes, I sleeved all penetrations with the correct size PVC prior to the pour.  As an example, I, too, used a 3" PVC scrap for my electrical service, angled slightly down towards the outside.  The difference in what I did, I suppose, is that I am using the dimple fabric from Armtec as the sole water barrier.  My plan is cut the PVC flush with the exterior in those cases that it presently isn't, have the sub install his conduit(s) as appropriate, foam the gaps, and then use a peel and stick around each penetration on the outside of the dimple fabric.  Herein lies the question:  should the peel and stick be applied OUTSIDE the dimple fabric or just up against the foam, cutting a circular hole in the dimple where the pipe(s) have to come in?
Reply...

2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010 Merit Award Winner
Contributing Editor

Kenneth's Forum Posts: 937
Interview Answers: 181

Private Message


Randomly Selected Image

Login to Vote

By Kenneth in Lees Summit, MO on 12/6/2006


I thought the concept of dimple board was to provide a drainage plane so that moisture would drain to the footing tile drains.  This is why it is used as secondary protection where waterproofing is also present.  Given this assumption of how it works, I would want to waterproof under the dimple board.

If you waterproof between the dimple board and the service penetration, you still have potential for water and moisture drainage between the dimple board and the foam wall, and if you don't have these penetrations sealed you could get seepage.  Now if you waterproof between the foam wall and the service penetrations, and put the dimple board over the whole thing, you eliminate this potential for seepage.  That is my line of thinking.


Reply...


Ed's Forum Posts: 6

Private Message


Randomly Selected Image

Login to Vote

By Ed in Des Moines, IA on 12/11/2006


The concept of dimple board is indeed to provide a drainage plane.  The thought is that the plastic will be a preventative control against hydrostatic pressure, but that if some water does indeed get behind it, that it would just flow down to the base of the wall at the footing without pressure where the drainage tile would carry it away.  This is the reason for sealing the top edge of the dimple board - to prevent dirt from getting behind the dimple board. 

That said, I've decided to use a paint on product (Blue Coat from Menards) to seal around the service penetrations.  I also used this in the area of the wall that hadn't yet been backfilled all the way up.  If I knew at backfill time what I know now, I would have sealed the entire wall as has been said here, but the ArmTec folks that make the Platon swear up and down that additional protection is not needed.  It seems that they should be right so long as the drainage solution doesn't ever clog up.  The Blue Coat is expensive at $100 for a 5 gallon pail, but I would think it wise to use it at a very minimum for a few feet up the wall (if not for the whole thing), but especially where the wall meets the footing. 


Reply...

2006, 2007 Merit Award Winner

Jon's Forum Posts: 219
Journal Entries: 1
Interview Answers: 2

Private Message


Jon's Selected Image

Login to Vote

By Jon in Ellicott City, MD on 12/12/2006


I used the Platon product for my ICF waterproofing.  Just like you, I was a little concerned that my Form-A-Drain might clog someday.  For "belt and suspenders" insurance, I placed a secondary drainage path - 4" perforated PVC pipe with a filter sock.  I used the rigid white pipe instead of the coiled black piping.  I felt that the smooth interior surface might drain sediment a little better.  It was a few extra bucks for a product I probably didn't need in the first place.  But it was easy to install and relatively cheap peace-of-mind.

If you're only partially backfilled, you might consider doing something similar.  With a filter sock around it, I don't think you'd have to install extra gravel.  (I only say that because it's a secondary drainage path.)

You could run your new drain pipe right under the utility passthroughs and pile some gravel there with filter fabric on top.  That way, any water that reached your service penetrations would fall through the gravel and into the drain pipe.

Just an idea.  It's certainly more than what's necessary.  But it would be cheap and easy insurance.

Jon


Reply...



Reply... Subscribe to this topic

Copyright 1997-2020 Consensus Group Inc.