[This is the Special Report 08 in Adobe Acrobat (PDF) Format. Our
electronic products download immediately to your computer upon
is the part of your project that everything else rests on. You can't
afford to have it off by even one inch. But the guys who do quality
work vary in their pricing by a wide margin. How to find good
workmanship and what to pay for it. Eight pages, revised and updated with new reader
tips, web links and comments.
- Width and depth needed for code
- Concrete stamping and cutting
- Poured concrete vs. Gypcrete for radiant floors
- Fastfoot fabric footing forms
- Poured vs. block walls
- Superior Walls pre-cast foundations
- Adequate rebar
- ICF foundations
- Surface bonded concrete block
- Permanent wooden foundations
- Rebar grade and strength
- Drain pipe options for walkout basement
- 9-foot foundations, thickness vs. engineering
- Problems with Superior Walls
- Dirt work and trenching
Excerpt from Report:
"...Q: What will you need from me to do a bid?
B&B will bid on foundations, and I will bid on footings, garage,
driveway, porch, sidewalks, steps, patio, any pads. For handicapped,
you'd need a ramp. You need an extremely good plot plan. Walter Jex can
do that. As for the accuracy of measurements, that's your
A: You need a building permit. Need steel
there, all the rebar there. I can order it, and the same for concrete.
I will tell you what to order. I cut some grade stakes off the rebar,
and set my forms to grade. When you order the rebar specify 60 grade.
The prices are the same. You can check ClydeCo in Mapleton, or Superior
Buck and Steel in Sandy. Take total footage, linear, divide by nine,
and add about 15 pieces for grade stakes and odds and ends. You can
throw anything left over in the foundation. You still have your
vertical steel to deal with. Talk to the supplier for your J bar tell
how high the foundation is gonna be and to send the appropriate steel.
For foundation man, Tri-L is the best. Tell them I'm on the job. They
are hard to get. If you get on their list, be serious about it. For
framing, Keith Taskett is great, a bit expensive.
A: Complete set of plans. I'll give them back to you at the job.
Q: Can you give me an idea about cost?
10X20 inch footing. If you have a custom home it's more angles. $2.50 a
foot, two strands of rebar. Verticals are 24? apart. If it's wider,
more horizontal rebar, or the verticals are closer together, it's more.
$8 a vertical foot for step-downs. Ask a foundation guy about
A: Four foot $7.50 a running foot. Labor.
Three foot labor and materials 8 inches thick $21, roughly $24 for a
four foot wall."...
Sample Reader Tip Excerpts:
are doing a basement out of pre-insulated concrete panels. The way this
is done, you excavate the hole, lay down your drain tile, dig in your
plumbing lines, 8 inches of gravel, or rather crushed washed limestone,
screeded and compacted. We went to Superiorwalls.com. Prestudded, ready
for insulation and drywall. Cost: About $22,000 for 2,400 s.f. and a
built-in tornado shelter. This house is seismic and hurricane standard.
Lots of strapping, and the floor is bolted to the basement. Hurricane
hangers for the trusses, and Kevlar strapping for the roof is also
Dave & Sheila A.
John is absolutely correct about steel being the best insurance. I
would never consider a 10’ 6” wall without it being engineered.
I would not engineer a 9’ wall myself. That is why I suggest talking to
your local wall contractors about it. They are familar with
your local soils and may want an engineered wall since their name will
be on it. The steel placement is very critical. If it is not in the
location, it is not worth putting it in. A good wall contractor will
explain it in layman’s terms so you understand why. With 18” above
grade and backfilled up to it, you will not have as much hydraulic
pressure as 6” or so above existing grade would.
by Joe in Cincinnati, OH