Get your plans early enough to allow for any changes to give the designer/architect time to make the changes. I suggest choosing a designer/architect who uses a 3-D design package so you can "see" what the final product should look like before you build it. If there are changes to be made, do it before construction to eliminate the need for a change order.

Any construction estimates from the designer/architect will only be good for about 90 days or so. The materials market, local season, and demand from other home construction projects in your area will affect the final construction estimate.

Keep in mind to get your foundation for your house designed for the soil it will sit on. Generic plans not designed specifically for your land can cost you thousands in repairs should the foundation fail. A local structural engineer should be able to do this fairly inexpensively and will design the foundation for your specific soil conditions.

Hope this helps. good luck.

Phil,

Great looking lot. May I suggest a quicker way to clear your land than by hand or contractor?

Just a suggestion...

Jim Gobel

Hello again, Here is a website you might want to check out for some project management software designed for the do-it-yourself home builder. ezhomebuild.com The program sells for about $250, roughly and looks to save you money in forms and overall headaches with scheduling and contractor management. I would like to hear from anyone who might already have this program and their views on its worth.

Jim

I'll keep looking...

Another site for ICF info: icfweb.com/search

has search engine for ICF-related professionals per state and more ICF information than you can use. Should help you get a bit more competitive bid.

Jim Gobel

Baine,

Have you tried the county courthouse(s) for tax auctions? Around here, folks are still losing their property because they can't pay the taxes and the mortgage. The taxing authorities then take the land and auction it off for what is owed in back taxes. If you are the best bidder, you get the land.

You might want to try to see if your state offers veterans land as well. Often we have auctions here for foreclosed land that was once veteran owned.

Jim

Around here, you can get paid for your house by having Habitat for Humanity deconstruct it. They get to keep all the materials and they don't do foundations, but they are quick and they clean everything up.

You might be able to get the same done for your house. It would be a shame to let all those materials end up in a landfill, instead of being recycled.

habitat.org

FYI: I have my own drafting company in Austin, Texas and the name is Texas CAD Works. I charge $0.65/S.F. to draft plans into construction sets. This does not include design, just drafting. What i provide is Floorplan(s), Four elevations, Cabinet elevations and interior elevation as needed (i.e.: stone walls, art niches, etc.), roof plan, and electrical plan. For an additional $0.20/s.f., i will also provide a framing plan for the roof and floor/ceiling joist plan. I have extensive construction experience and i am willing to give both references and my resume to those interested in my services. If the plan needs additional design, I charge by the hour at $30.00/hour. Please feel free to e-mail me for further information. Jim Gobel

Susan, Sounds like you got a fairly inexperienced architect on your hands. Most architects are the designers, that is they design based on your needs and wants as well as they throw in their own flair to set the building apart from others. Designers do the same but usually are not trying to sell you on something you don't want to buy. Most of the designers that I know have actual experience constructing the buildings they design, myself included. Instead of spending 5 or 6 years in school, we were pounding nails to make ends meet. But it sounds like you are needing help in the 'appearance' of your house, not in the layout. If that is the case, I suggest you contact an interior design firm that can assist you in your overall design for your house. If you know what you want, how you want it to look, the layout is complete but your just needing plan, then hire a architectural DRAFTER. He/She will assemble what you have and redraw these items into a working set of construction documents. Once you have these, you then need to interview construction managers for your project. A construction manager will manage your job for you and will be your eyes and ears on the job and will do as much or as little as you will like. They work for you and they usually charge either a percentage of the total job or lump sum. Some even get performance bonuses based on budget savings or completion times. PM me and I will send you a sample project managers contract for you to review. The most important thing to remember is that it is YOUR project.You can take as much or as little time you want to build your project. Your overall happiness with the finished project is what's important. - Jim P.S. After you type your response, highlight it then right click and copy it so if you lose your connection you can right click and paste when you get back in.

Hello All,

As I have done in another thread, I would like to pass these links for those seeking subcontractors in their areas but don't know who to call.

abc.org/wmspage

thebluebook.com

Also, not sure if this will even apply to most O-B's areas, but if you have apartment projects going up, you should contact the Super and make a deal about getting the surplus building materials. Most of these jobs are over-estimated by 15% or more and any extra building materials is taken to the dump. I have been fortunate enough to acquire over 4,000 2x4x92 5/8 as well as OSB, drywall, insulation, and more electrical wiring than I have plans for.

Unfortunately, at this time, I have no land to build on so all these materials are in storage. But the way I look at it, its cheaper to store them than to outright buy them.

Anyway, these apartment supers will usually work with you on getting the excess materials off their site, but you must be able to pick all of the materials up at a moments notice and have cash on hand if that was the deal that was worked out.

I hope this helps a bit. Good Luck!

Jim Gobel

Hello everyone, I just wanted to let you know a method that has yet to fail for me in managing a project. I show up in the morning and hold a small meeting to find out subs' concerns and shortcomings, material shortages and the like. I then walk the site shortly then I leave them to do their work. I show back up after lunch to receive materials, if any, and speak to each foreman to check for problems. If there are none, I leave again FOR THE DAY. I do a walk-through after everyone has left for the day - basically a mini punch list for tomorrow's meeting. None of the subs are required to work on Saturday IF THEY ARE ON SCHEDULE. All the subs clean up daily and I always thank them each morning and afternoon. I find that leaving these people to do the work that they have been hired for and PRAISING them for that work has been very effective. Again, this method has been effective so far. The approval process is stringent but the results are worth it.

Jim & Pam,

Whatever company you choose, you will have to have an excellent debt to income ratio. That is, your outgoing bills need to be much smaller than what you bring in. Also, regardless of who you work for and for how much, it matters more how long you both have had your jobs. Stability is what the banks are after, then dependability.

Will your local utility companies or creditors give you a letter of reference? Will your landlord?

Are either of you veterans? California has veteran loans available for land and housing, but you will still need job stability and bill paying dependability established. They also sell to everyone the forfieted land/homes that they reposess:

cdva.ca.gov/repos/default.asp

Regardless of your dreams, you need to get ahold of your reality. Where can you slice expenditures to save the most money and still live? Ride the bus? Vanpool? If you go to the 'table' with 20% down, then most loaners will give you the money to get what you so desire. Are you willing to drive into town for your jobs? Land will most likely be cheaper east of your location on the other side of the mountains.

You may also get lucky and find what you are after at the local tax auction. you will need to be either pre-loan qualified or have money in hand (cashier's check) to pay for what you bid on. might be your best bet:

ttax.co.la.ca.us/auction_intro.htm

Either way, i wish you luck in your quest. Incidentally, you shouldn't hire anyone to repair your credit for you. They can't do anything that you can't do yourself for free.

If your debt to income ratio is 40% or less, usually, then most banks will loan you the money, providing you meet the other criteria. another service to consider:

https://www.creditexpert.com/Default.aspx?SiteVersionID=2&SiteID=100003&sc=699999&bcd

an inexpensive way to monitor your scores.

My 2 ¢

Bob,

Try calling or stopping by a local plumbing supply house. Here you can ask about installation problems, maintenance issues, types and gripes, and all free of charge. The home centers are great for price, but run short on usable advice. If you show the plumbing supply your plans, they might even give some advice as to how to make your project easier for the plumber and therefore cheaper for you.

Good luck.

Jim G.

try google: concrete countertops do it yourself

For example: naturalhandyman.com

or for everthing you have always wanted to know about concrete countertops but were afraid to ask: concreteexchange.com

Lots of galleries here. Be sure to register as a builder/installer so you are taken seriously. Endless possibilities at this website. Have fun!

Jim Gobel

all concrete cracks. It is caused by shrinkage during the drying process. The drying process itself is a chemical reaction and cannot be stopped once started. If your cracks have a lip between surfaces greater than 1/4", then consult your foundation engineer and have them come out and inspect the foundation. You may or may not have movement in the soil on your site causing the cracking. That will be something for the engineer to assess.

I would do this prior to any more weight being applied to the foundation. It is cheaper to repair the foundation if you don't have to disassemble the house first.

You might want to get all the delivery tickets from the concrete supplier for the engineer. These should show when the concrete was batched and when it was delivered and how much water was added to each truck.

Concrete usually sets firm in about 90 minutes or so, depending on the additives and the climate conditions. This process time is started the minute the water is added at the batching plant, not when it is poured at the site.

FYI: On a job I managed for a contractor, the concrete company added water to each truck as they pulled up to the site, without my permission. This added water caused to concrete to weaken, thus causing the foundation to fail. This was confirmed by the testing labs' results. The concrete company ended up paying for the removal and resetting of the foundation. Cost them about $73k for not following directions.

You might want a testing lab to core the foundation to give you piece of mind. They will 'break' the core and that should determine the strength of the concrete in your foundation, on average(each truck is different)

Kevin,

First and foremost, you should obtain a lawyer. You should also have a lien release from your contractor prior to releasing any funds to him and definitely prior to releasing anymore funds to him.

Here are a couple of links that will familarize you with the current Ohio law regarding Mechanic's Liens:

http://onlinedocs.andersonpublishing.com/oh/lpExt.dll?f=templates&fn=main-h.htm&cp=PORC

Type "mechanic's lien" in the search window and get some coffee.

http://www.clelaw.lib.oh.us/Public/Misc/FAQs/Foreclose.html

Article is second section down.

I would also issue a stop-work order to your contractor until the issue is resolved. Having him out there working may be construed as your agreement to the charges. If any monies are outstanding, then prior to any payment, you should obtain a lien release releasing you from all outstanding liabilities. If he has hired day labor or contract labor outside his normal personnel, then you need lien releases from these people too. Again, prior to any release of funds.

Here is another good source of information for you and some contact numbers to the Attorney General's office: http://www2.ag.state.oh.us/sections/consumer/lib/pdf/HomeImprove.pdf

I would also get a notorized statement from the developer as to what role they played in this, since he seems to be a key in the whole process.

In any case, I highly suggest you contact legal representation to make sure you don't miss a step and have them review your other contracts as well.

I wish you luck on this.

Jim Gobel

Hello Everyone,

A request has been made for the uploading of the documents for all to use. Please be patient to allow for this to happen.

Thanks,

Jim Gobel

You might be surprised at your inquiry. A lot of landowners are interested in selling a portion of their property, only they would prefer not to use a Realtor, to save on the required commission. Let your letter state that you are not a Realtor and that you are interested in only enough land to allow for your permanent homestead, say 1/2 acre or so.

Include in the letter a self-addressed envelope and a contact number, both home and cell so interested landowners may contact you. Some may be old school and would prefer to write a letter.

Also, be sure to ask if they aren't interested in selling any land, perhaps their friends or neighbors might know someone who would be.

Be sure to tell them about yourself and your family and compliment them on their land as much as you feel is necessary. Everyone likes compliments and that may be just the thing to get you a sliver of their paradise.

I wish you luck and happy hunting.

Jeremiah,

I looked at your budget spreadsheet and could not find what size each house was. Can you give us an update for price per square foot comparisons?

Would be great to see the difference.

thanks,

Jim Gobel

Dustin,

You could build a conventionally framed home with log type siding for the look with out the draft. Here is a link to one company:

logsiding.com/siding

I am sure there are others. I just googled "log siding" and quite a few popped up.

This way you can be selective as to what room has the log look and what doesn't.

Here are some pictures of their siding and trim products. Got to love the corners!

good luck.

Jim Gobel

If you are using a kit, all the heavy thinking is already done, if you follow the instructions and diagrams exactly.

 The foundation should be easy to design. A competent draftsperson should be able to do it.  Figure out how much load is on the foundation, basic soil bearing capicity, wind loads and there it is!!!  It certainly isn't serious calculus.

If you want some pointers and/or more contact me off the forum.

Yes, buy it if you can. It is easier to find subs to work it then to get those prices again.

Also, I find one of the most attractive ways to use granite is in its natural state, that is, not edge shaped. You can knock off the edges yourself using a grinder, goggles and a sense of humor (hard work).

If, however, you choose to leave it as natural as possible, you will need to be creative in your kitchen designing to get the most of the slabs you have. The key is not to have to match slabs in corners.

You could have high/low cabinetry, islands, rolling prep carts, etc. Could also use some small slabs in the bath area. Might even find a sub willing to work the granite if they realize they don't have to profile the edges.

If I had the opportunity to buy slabs that cheap, I would hold onto them forever if need be because the prices are only going to go up.

This site should also give you some pointers: doityourselfgranite.com

or even here might help, too: diynetwork.com

Have fun!

Jim

here's a good start for those who are interested:

  Click here to download attachment...

Great design - flows nicely from room to room. I would move the door to bedroom two closer to bedroom three so you don't lose the space behind the door. Could do the same for bedroom three - move entire wall/door closer to bedroom two closet wall. Any space behind the door is considered 'dead space' because of the door swing. Given that, utilize what you have to the best of the design. Could put a closet in the stairwell over the bottom landing to serve as a coat closet for your guests - stairs will still have 6'8" clear head space.

You should seriously consider getting Chief Architect. It will automatically clean up the wall and dimension lines, create elevations and cross sections and has a plan check feature that ensures your design meets IRC codes. Automatic interior and exterior dimensions are default and 'live' details can be created for each area you choose.

The program will save you money in the long run by not having to hire a draftsperson to do the elevations or interior detail page or cross sections. The program will even design a foundation for you that you can send electronically to the engineer for approval or refinement.

You have done all the hard work already - the initial design. Giving this to a draftsperson will only cost more money - most will redraw the plan, make minor changes and charge you by the heated square foot in the process.

Chief 10 is so refined now, you can go straight from program design to building review to construction without having to spend more money on the process. The program exports in AutoCAD format so the engineer can work on the plan for the foundation and framing system without delay.

My 2 cents...

Sounds like he is going to sell you the 'bank set', that is what you described and all that the bank needs to finance your project. What you should be getting for your money is a complete 'construction set'. Or the CAD drawings for you to make your own changes.

Sounds like he plans on being the builder for your project, you just don't know it yet. unless you get a complete set of construction documents, including electrical and foundation plans, then I would say hit the web with the plan name and see if you can find the designer.

good luck

Mike,

You should have used Chief Architect or 3D Home Architect (retail version of Chief). The program has a plan checker that walks you through the plan, checking for code omissions or potential trouble spots. Its fairly easy to use and could have saved you the $400 for the designer who had too much on his plate to give your plans the attention it needed.

I am an old AutoCAD man myself but now have switched over to Chief due to its ease of use, 3D capabilities, and the ability to instantly change all the areas of a plan instead of having to open each sheet.

I still use AutoCAD for some details, but mainly because I already have them drawn. If I were you, I would tell that designer that he needs to reimburse you the money you paid since he did not do what he promised. If he chooses not too, then complain to the better business bureau/, the A.I.B.D./, and the aia.org/. He will get the hint and either repair your plans properly or give you your money back.

At the very least expect to pay 50 cents per square foot heated for plans to be brought up to code. This is using your designs as is, with little to no changes. Anything lower would draw concern to their capabilities and overall design experience. I have charged as low as that to drum up business, but now I refer most of my work away to others for I suffer from too much to do.

Attached is what I normally include in a plan set. You should expect nothing short of this.

Jim Gobel

  Click here to download attachment...

Marsha,

I have looked at your plan, and if this is all there is, then I would ask for your money back. This is not a complete construction set. I see no details, interior dimensions, etc. and I would have also suggested some minor changes to save you change order money down the road.

You could use PUNCH! to do the design, but I suggest 3-D Home Architect from Broderbund, the retail version of Chief Architect. For even better design flexibility, get the complete Chief Architect package.

Whatever you decide to use, the house needs to fit the land it will sit on.

Once you have finaled the design, you will need to take them to a structural engineer to design a foundation for it. He/she should hire a soils lab to assess your site conditions so they can accurately design for those conditions. They can also recommend a local truss company to design your roof and floor trusses. They should also be able to provide a framing plan for the interior portions if you so desire. He will also need a Boundary and Topo survey of your property for the foundation design.

I recommend getting the engineer to provide as many services as they can. He has the expertise, the seal and the insurance. Your plan needs to be designed for the most inexperienced bidder. Too much is usually not enough when it comes to home plans.

An architect, in most states, can design the foundation and framing systems, but I always recommend those who do it for a living.

Shoot me a PM and I will give you the design suggestions. I am no longer designing for a profit, so take it for what it is: free advice.

In any case, if you decide to find another designer/architect, try to find one with some construction experience. They can save you money in the long run by seeing potential construction problems and designing corrections prior to costing you change orders.

Hope this helps a bit. Good luck with your adventure.

Jim Gobel

Hello,

In your quest for land, you should also check out the local tax office for tax deed sales of property to pay for the back taxes owed. These sales differ in each county a bit but should give you a fair chance at some decent property. For Duval County, here is the link for their Tax Deed Auction information: duval.fl.us.landata.com

As it says on the website, if you win, you have to give the money up within 48 hours, so be prepared when you go there.

You should also have an idea as to how much of a footprint your house and flatwork will cover, so you don't exceed the impervious cover limits the land you are buying may have. It would indeed be a shame to purchase land then have to redesign your house to fit on it.

I hope this help. Good Luck!

Darrell, If you e-mail me at texascadworks@yahoo.com, I will send you the forms I have in word and excel format. I have several other types as well. Let me know what you need and I'll see if I can help. Jim Gobel

Hello Everyone, Thought I would 'enlighten' you on a few things about SIP's that some folks don't understand. First, SIP's are a specialty building product. That is, you can't get them at your neighborhood Home Depot. Given that, subcontractors familiar with these systems will be scarce. This means that you will spend more money for little benefit. Second, SIP's almost always require a crane to erect them. That may not be a problem for some, but if your site won't allow it, what then? Third, SIP's aren't "change order compliant".

What I mean is simple: if this situation requires changes to the footprint of the structure, what are your options? I bring this up because the whole concept of Owner-Building (saving money) is being lost on specialty building products. If you can't readily replace your contractors if the need arises, then what's the point of the savings in the first place? Stick framing is the cheapest and easiest to adapt to. It is also understood by a lot more contractors than SIP or panelized systems are. If you insist on being different, research ICF systems. At least these systems are user-friendly and will survive what nature has in store. Good Luck. Jim Gobel

Alexandra,

At a minimum, you should see if the original designer can make your changes. They are already familiar with the plans and the changes will probably be by the hour instead of the square foot. Also, for your designer to make any changes, he/she must have permission from the original designer to do so or they will be in copyright violation. Essentially, if the original designer finds out, and they will, they can take the house if you build it.

If your designer is willing to acquire a notarized release letter from the original designer, then proceed only with a contract that you and your lawyer agree upon. If the designer 'can't wait' for the release, you 'can't wait' for them.

One of the reasons I chose to design for 50 cents a s.f. was to drum up business in a poor economy. Things have drastically changed around here, but I no longer design for profit - too many bad checks. The drafting market is essentially hot nationwide. There is no reason to draft for 55 cents anymore. Unless of course you lack the experience to charge more.

Given all that, I would ask around and get additional pricing. 'You get what you pay for' definitely applies in this case. Be very wary of the 'good deals'. Drafting a set of plans takes time and lots of consultation between parties. Modifying a given set of plans usually requires more than a few changes would produce. A house is a system, making changes to the system affects every part of that system. Each change needs to be planned for, engineered, and must be buildable or you are just wasting money.

Sorry about the length, but overall, planning ahead will save you money and aspirin in the long run.

Good luck.  Jim Gobel

Kenneth,

I assume he scraped the first 6-8 inches off before he started? This removes any organics that will decay and leaves a void below the concrete.

If you are wanting your finished floor above the road bed, then tell him to bring in the additional base to get it there. He might be saving you money on dirt, but he might also be saving himself the extra work. If you are paying for one foot over in height, then you need to get what you are paying for.

He may also be trying to set the tone for the job: if he gets you to do this, then he can get you to just about anything. I would rather spend the money and get the look I was after to begin with then save it and possibly spend it somewhere else.

Go with your gut on this. You are obviously losing sleep over this. If you think it needs to be over the road, then tell him so and be firm about it.

Good luck.

Hello everyone, before any of us gets too far in the planning stages of our particular projects, we should plan ahead for the future. One way to do that, regardless of the building materials we choose for our walls, is to make sure every room in the house is accessible by a wheelchair. This includes closets and bathrooms - two rooms often overlooked when planning because these rooms usually have smaller doors and aren't really considered until the time comes. A standard to consider is a minimum 32" clearance for doorways. Also, if you are building a two story, you should try to stack closets on top of each other for the possibility of a residential elevator. Residential elevators are fairly inexpensive and relatively easy to install when planned in advance. Again, if you can, it's best to eliminate the curb in at least one shower for wheelchair accessibility and also consider to have one exterior door (32" minimum) to have a sloped entrance instead of the standard 3 1/2" curb. We all hope to maintain our current health and hope that we will never need to use these accommodations, however, if planned in advance, we will be ready for the adjustment because we were prepared for it. Here are two sites that may be useful for you to make the necessary adjustments to your plans to accommodate potential restricted mobility family and friends: residentialelevators.com/ & hud.gov/library/bookshelf09/fhefhag.cfm Good luck.

I am assuming that these plans are in-hand? If they are from a local designer, available on CAD, then have the designer put in on file at a local copy shop. For each General that bids, they can send their subs to the print shop to purchase copies themselves, allowing them to pick and choose which plans they need and what size to print them at. If they are in-hand then have the print shop scan them and store them for the same purpose.

Your lender really only needs a "bank set" - floorplans and exterior elevations. They want to see what they are buying. They aren't interested in the specifics. Ask your banker specifically what they need and provide only that.

Your plans should have an electrical plan as well as a roof plan ( from above, not bird's eye) The plumbing plan should be part of the floor plan.

I don't see the structurals here - foundation, framing and associated details. You should be getting these from the structural engineer you hired to design the foundation for your land. Also, your framer is going to need the floor plan, roof plan and elevations too if you want them to do the cornice(exterior trim - soffit, fascia, corner trim boards, water table, etc.)

If you have an idea as to what general you are going bid with, ask them specifically what they need to bid the job TURN-KEY. Turn Key is everything, including the kitchen sink, with no change orders from ommissions and no hidden costs. If they don't see it when they bid the job, you shouldn't suffer for their lack of planning.

When you say you were going to have three different general's bid, based on their specific specialty, I am assuming that your plans were pre-purchased from a web site or service? I don't know of a single designer/architect who generically designs a house without a specific building process in mind during the design. Each construction method has its own quirks that need to be designed for and included in the plans and details. The method will also need to be known to the structural engineer so they can design the right framing and the right foundation for the specific construction method used.

To approach a set of plans with a generalization as to what type construction is used to build the house is asking for the title of "Money Pit". You might not be able to afford to build it once each general, with each of their subs, bid the job and a different set of structurals for each construction method is only going to make the engineer rich.

What ever method is prevalent in your area is the method you should be using. Go green with the construction and the materials used, but keep consistant in the assembly and your bids will be negotiable and affordable.

I wish you luck.

Good Morning,

For those interested in plans you may see on Eplans.com: For each picture, elevation or floorplan you may like, right click on the picture itself then save it to a folder on your desktop. That way you can print the floor plan and the elevation drawings, make modifications to those that fit your needs and then take it to a local designer/architect.

All internet plans will have to be modified to meet local and national building codes and all will have to be engineered to your specific site conditions. Since that is the case, save yourself the money and take your ideas to the designer/architect in your areas.

As long as you don't take the exact drawing, without changes, to be redesigned, you should be okay on the copyright side.

When I was doing drawings for profit, my clients would bring me clippings and portions of floorplans to make into a completed set. It was expected that design meeting would take place and that changes would be made. That was part of the process and the billing price.

This is the fine print at eplans.com:

kolbe-kolbe.com/contractor/index

This link is to Kolbe & Kolbe windows and doors. Here is your 'local' supplier:

COASTAL DOOR & WINDOW/MOBILE
P O DRAWER 190579
MOBILE, AL 36619
251-666-7306

They have a real nice product and usually have a 'no questions asked' replacement policy. I have also found that they install and guarantee the installation of all their products. a rarity in the construction business.

Drue,

You should consider getting your own CAD drawing package like Chief Architect.

Regardless of how many design changes you do or ideas you submit towards the design of your plans, those plans belong to the architect. He/she would be a fool to allow you to build this house three times without getting compensation for each build. Especially with changes. If the changes you make affect the structure, then he will have to recertify the plans. Or risk his reputation and his business should your changes cause problems.

More than likely, he will charge you a minimal fee for each set, with changes, since the initial design has already been done. Otherwise, why is he in business? For profit, of course.

Chief Architect has the capability of producing your plans to local code and you keep the design and rights to the design.

If I designed a home for someone, regardless of their input on the project, it is my design and my rights to that design stay with me. For each home that is built using that design, I expect compensation.

If you build the home without compensating me or without my permission, then you are in copyright violation. If it's not in writing, it doesn't exist. Protect yourself and get it in writing that you have multiple build rights with changes.

My two cents...

Jim

Jeanne, Congrats to you on winning the contest. Get the most out of it by flying to the farthest destination you can get away with and have fun while your there. I don't think I'll be heading to Vegas any time soon, my odds of winning are 9 in 50? Then again, I never contributed with the thought of winning anyway...Enjoy, Jim

PLEASE keep in mind that you get what you pay for when you go with 'cheap' designers. There is something they aren't including in your plan set, something they don't know, or something they are omitting to charge you extra later down the road.

Does $0.15 per s.f. include ALL the interior and exterior construction details? How about the cross section or accurate elevations? Cabinets details, interior elevations, electrical plans, and plumbing plans too? Is the building designed to IRC 2005 code? How about the NEC? Does these plans meet this criteria as well?

Is the plan designed for the land it will sit on? Do they recommend the use of a structural engineer and suggest a soils analysis to ensure proper foundation construction? Keep in mind: if the foundation sucks, the rest of the building will too.

Just because you don't live in a big city and have a permit department to answer too, doesn't mean your building doesn't have to meet the building codes. Since there is no "official" plan reviewer and inspection department, that is all the more reason for your plans to be right the first time.

Fifteen cents sounds great, but it really might be better to check around a bit more to make sure you are really getting the 'good deal' you are after. I suggest calling the local AIA chapter or checking here as well: aibd.org/consumers and order their free guide to residential design. Might be the best time you have spent so far.

If you have any questions, or need clarification on what you are getting with your plan sets, then shoot me a PM and I will answer them the best I can or get the answers for you if I can't be of help myself.

Good luck.

Okay, here goes. The following file represents the construction specifications we use when we build our affordable houses in Austin.

If you are going to use these specs, please review them and edit them for your specific project. Also, please proofread them and use spell check. If you are going to spend the time to edit them, please make sure they are professional in context prior to issuing them to your bidders. Every perception you are trying to build as an informed Owner-Builder can be reversed on releasing incorrect, incomplete, or poorly written material.

You might not be the director on your project, but you are definitely the producer.

I hope this gives you the guidance you need for a successful build. Good luck!

Jim Gobel

  Click here to download attachment...

Here's a link to usable details and specs we provide at the City: issweb.ci.austin.tx.us:5151

Use these to enhance your plans and define what you can't explain to your contractor.

enjoy!

** update: I realize that some of you might not understand why I included this link here since you don't live here. Basically, it was for those who are doing their own specs for their projects. I thought it might be easier and more professional if you included specific details and specifications from a governing authority who has spent the time and money perfecting the various details here instead of assuming your bidding contractors know 'what you mean'. Each of the specs and details are editable in several different formats. For example: here is one for proper mailbox placement in document format and a jpeg for proper silt fence placement.

Construction specifications need to be complete for the entire job, not just for what is going into the structure itself.**

  Click here to download attachment...

Angelique,

Your best bet is to go to thebluebook.com and enter your state in the pulldown and the word "stairs" in the search string. The result is a lot of companies that service your area for metal and wood spiral stairs. Or curved, whatever you decide should fit there, keep in mind that unsupported can only go up so far per flight. Since you are having it supported all the way, perhaps a local woodworker could get it done cheaper? I am assuming you were wanting wood since the support issue came up.

Most of the companies listed had weblinks for you check out their product line and a few had free catalogs you can order. If you get a quote, find out the lead time from order to delivery and whether they install or not (turn-key pricing is what you need). The lead time will help you schedule installation. Once these guys get started, you pretty much want to leave them alone to finish the job.

The site is also good for getting subs and suppliers for just about anything else you might need for your house.

Good Luck!

Jim Gobel

Jeanne D., BEFORE yoy make the mistake of trusting your excavator/foundation contractor, I am begging you to get a soil report. Here in Austin, a local lab charges $ 250.00 for a soils test and the attached structural engineering firm charges by the s.f. or by a set price. How do I know? I worked there as a soil/concrete/construction inspector for three years. If they are saying you need piers and don't even know whats below the surface, then you're going to pay in the end with more piers to fix your slab in the future. This is your dream home right? Why trust someone with your dream who doesn't abide by good construction practices? Spend the money now and get your slab designed for the site it will sit on and then you will sleep at night. jim g.

My problem with the Rastra product is the concrete placement. Rastra is a honeycomb design. This means that for the concrete to get to all of the nook and crannies, it will have to be the consistency of water. Concrete can be designed to be this consistency, but this is done AT THE BATCH PLANT, not in the field at the concrete pump.

However, of the concrete pours I have seen here in Austin with Rastra as their forms, the concrete sub added 40, 50, and sometimes 60 gallons of water to each truck to get the concrete to the consistency it had to be to fill all the voids. This concrete was the standard 5-sack mix and wasn't designed for that type of water addition. Once a sub touches the water valve or orders the driver to do so, the load is bought, weak or not. If the concrete fails, then the sub is the only one who can be sued, not the concrete company.

What the homeowners got, without prior knowledge, was weak concrete. If the sub had told the plant what they were to do with the mix, then the plant could have sent out a design for those conditions. This would more than likely have been more expensive, but well worth the lack of concern whether or not the walls can support the roof.

All I can say is this: before you consider using this building product, ask about the concrete placement and what "SLUMP" the concrete will have to be to fill all the voids. The higher the slump, the weaker the concrete. Most "normal" concrete loads are 4"-6" slumps with an addition of 10 gal if a pump is being used. Curb concrete is 2"-3". The manufacturer of Rastra should have this and also the recommended concrete design: pea gravel, 3/8" rock, etc. Once you have the recommended design, have the concrete plant design the concrete for its application. This way if it fails, you have some recourse to pursue.

And, if you plan on pumping the concrete, have the pump operator be the ONLY one who adds water to the loads. He/she will add only what they need to get it through the hoses.

Good luck.

Your best bet would be to choose a package like Vectorworks or Chief Architect or even Archicad. AutoCAD is set up more for the professional architect and more for commercial than the residential side.

I use Chief Architect but it has its limitations in design. I have begun using Vectorworks at work and so far I like it more than Chief. But being an old AutoCAD man, getting used to their buttons and ways is trying at times. Both have the ability to produce material lists, as does Archicad.

From what your post said, you primarily hand draw. If that is the case, then I wouldn't bother with AutoCAD at all and would probably not get Archicad. It's expensive and is more for the professional office. Here is there link: graphisoft.com/

Here are the links to Vectorworks and Chief Architect. Each has pros and cons. Both are 3-D packages with CAD abilities.

nemetschek.net/architect

chiefarchitect.com/products

Incidentally, I still use AutoCAD for some details but these packages have upgraded to the point that even they can handle fine details.

Good luck.

Edward, Have you considered looking for land through the Department of Veterans Affairs site? You may also check the State Veterans Land Office (if Colorado has one) for defaulted loans. Sometimes you can get a great deal on land with a very low interest rate. Texas has auctions every six months to unload all of their excess tracts. Perhaps Colorado does that as well. You might also check for tax auctions at the local courthouse. Sometimes you can pick up land for what's owed in back taxes. Good Luck, Jim Gobel

Sure, you can do that - if your local building review/permitting departments allow it. Some jurisdictions require an Architect to design the plans. You need to check before you buy.

In any case, you MUST have a structural engineer and a soils lab to assess your site and design a foundation for your house for that specific site. The Engineer will more than likely hire the lab to give them the numbers they need for design.

If you choose to purchase plans over the net, let your other subs review them for accuracy - electrician, plumber, HVAC, carpenter. Your draftsman may or may not have the construction experience to determine if something doesn't 'look right' about the layout. Make sure windows are properly sized for egress, hallways are wide enough, doorways are wide enough, minimum headroom clearance in and under stairs, return air ducting doesn't kill a closet, electrical meets code, etc.

The 'problem' with internet plans is that they aren't designed for any specific set of building codes. The disclaimers all over the plans say to have them checked for accuracy and for local codes. You may spend more on getting your plans ready to build then if you took your ideas to a designer and have them create your house from those ideas that meets local codes. Or do it yourself.

Programs like 3-D Home Architect or its professional version Chief Architect can produce an accurate set of plans to national IRC code that you can design and build yourself. That is, if it's allowed. Before you buy a $1,000 worth of plans you will have to change anyway, explore designing most of it yourself. The changes you make won't cost you by the hour.

Hope this helps you out a bit. Good luck.

Jim Gobel

Paula,

A site plan often includes the following:

• a map showing the location of the property in relation to adjacent properties, roads, and utilities.
• location of the proposed structure, required building setbacks, and any proposed flatwork such as patio slabs and sidewalks/driveways.
• Dimensions of any proposed structures in relation to the property boundaries.
• north direction arrow
• property boundaries
• slope shown by contour lines or cross sections or both
• any trees/plants that are to remain
• location of any proposed fencing or masonry fencing structures
• scale of the site plan
• solar site information, if required
• septic field/tank locations, if required.
• impervious cover, building coverage, & total land square footage's.

The site plan uses information acquired from the Surveyor like topographical, boundary, tree and utility locations. Your designer/Architect should get this information directly from the Surveyor and place your house, driveways and any exterior slabs on their drawing to ensure accuracy of the presented information.

If you are not using a designer/architect, the surveyor may be able to do a site plan for you.

As for the soil tests, most structural engineering firms require one to properly design the foundation for its final resting place. A site plan is needed by the soils lab to ensure that soil samples are acquired from where the structural slabs are to be built. Random sampling is not possible when structures are involved.

The type of test normally performed to determine a soils' shrinkage/expansion capability is called an Atterberg Limits test.

Here is a rather boring, but informative web page on the subject: http://www.mite.com.au/manual/p6.html

I have also included a sample site plan in pdf format so you can get an idea as to what you need. Please keep in mind that this was for City of Austin Building Review requirements and your area may require more or less for approval.

Hope this helps a bit. Good Luck.

Jim Gobel

  Click here to download attachment...

Jennifer,

Soundproofing the bedroom and bathroom walls can be easily done with standard wall insulation. The total elimination of sound emanating from a bathroom or bedroom isn't possible this way, but it is enough to muffle the 'obvious' to more desirable, less intelligible sounds.

In most of the homes I have designed I have either placed closets to aid in the sound control or have spec'd for insulating the bathroom and master bedroom walls. I have also done the same for the study, especially if the floor is of a hard surface.

The suggestions below are good for media rooms or playrooms, but maybe too expensive of a solution for everyday use rooms like the bathroom.

The use of exhaust fans in the bathroom as well as radios in the bedroom could provide you the sound dispersion you so desire if an immediate fix is warranted. Otherwise, the use of simple insulating material is the way to go and is easier on the wallet and has no effect on the heating/cooling systems of the structure.

Regards,

Jim Gobel

http://www.kolbe-kolbe.com/architect/index.cfm?page=products&sub=doorsInfo&id=12&detail=74

They don't sell to consumers but if you are a 'builder', then they will sell to you and you will get your discount as well. Also, most Home Centers can order these types of doors. Ask the door person to show you the catalog or a supplier's name if they don't carry them.

Jim Gobel

Sam,

Also check out Kolbe & Kolbe windows and doors. Their product line is similar and they install thier own products and guarantee them through construction. That is, if they get broke, they will come out and repair them. Handy option to have nowadays.

Here is the local distributor:

WEST COAST WOOD WINDOWS 230 WEST FALLBROOK SUITE 106 FRESNO, CA 93711-3711 800-227-6573

Also, here is the main web site: http://www.kolbe-kolbe.com/index.cfm

They should be able to send you product catalogs and any cd's of their line. The local store here in Austin even guarantees to beat Pella and Marvin prices for the same type of window. Perhaps they will do the same for you. Good Luck!

Jim Gobel

Greg,

Find a local heavy construction company and ask if they have any new jobs starting up that require excavation. Let them know you are interested in receiving the 'clean fill' from their sites. Clean meaning no tree parts and no large boulders over 8" which will create voids. Most companies have to pay to get rid of their excess soil so your need may save them some money.

Using wood chips with soil defeats the purpose of removing the top 6" of soil before the foundation work begins. This 6" contains organics that will eventually decay leaving voids under the slab, creating the danger of foundation failure. Save the wood chips for garden mulch instead.

Putting a 4' x 8' plywood sign with "CLEAN FILL WANTED" on your site should get the word around quickly.

Jim Gobel

Your best bet is to find a surveyor that does development. They would help you the most since they should have the experience in getting the local governments to abandon unused property and also assist you in getting any variances you may need for your development.

The yellow pages may work or you can try www.thebluebook.com This site has about 191 surveyors for the D.C area. You will have to find the one closest to you.

You should also check with the local government authority on the procedures for getting a variance.

Cathy,

Given that your lots are sloped, it would be best to have the houses designed for the slope. You will also need the soil analyzed for the structural engineer to design a foundation for each specific house. I would suggest you contact your local AIA chapter and get a design professional who is accustomed to designing houses in your neck of the woods. That way he/she may incorporate the land and some of it's foundation requirements into the house itself.

They have the resources and experience that will save you money in the long run.

good luck

jim

I agree with Andrew. I have been using AutoCAD since release 10 -  long time ago (now release 2005 or 17). AutoCAD is great if you want to produce 2-D plans and details, but I can 'visualize' what the final product will look like, you probably can't. I now use Chief Architect to show my clients a 3-D version of what I have been trying to explain for the last half hour. I can make changes and show immediate results. I still use CAD when I need to, but mostly I use Chief. One change on Chief changes all the plan sheets. Not so with AutoCAD. Also, Chief saves drawings as DWG or DXF for file transfers to engineers or surveyors if need be.

Nothing beats the ability to show a client the design possibilities with immediate results. Chief Architect has a sample CD you can play with, or you can buy the 3-D Home Architect package retail. Essentially the same program. Good luck.

Jim Gobel

Angelique,

Your best bet is to go to thebluebook.com and enter your state in the pulldown and the word "stairs" in the search string. The result is a lot of companies that service your area for metal and wood spiral stairs. Or curved, whatever you decide should fit there, keep in mind that unsupported can only go up so far per flight. Since you are having it supported all the way, perhaps a local woodworker could get it done cheaper? I am assuming you were wanting wood since the support issue came up.

Most of the companies listed had weblinks for you check out their product line and a few had free catalogs you can order. If you get a quote, find out the lead time from order to delivery and whether they install or not (turn-key pricing is what you need). The lead time will help you schedule installation. Once these guys get started, you pretty much want to leave them alone to finish the job.

The site is also good for getting subs and suppliers for just about anything else you might need for your house.

Good Luck!

Jim Gobel

Jeff, You need to consult a structural engineer who specializes in forensic engineering. This type of engineer will examine the foundation for spawled concrete, warped rebar, etc. that often occurs in structure fires. You will also need to consult the building inspection department and their rules on building on existing foundations, regardless of their condition. You may find that by code you are required to build on the old slab a certain percentage along with you new slab. Also, get the report from the fire department as to the cause of the fire for the structural engineer and consult with their inspector on his/her opinion of the total heat degrees the foundation may have been subjected too. Most of these reports are public knowledge (you got ask the right department) and you should be able to get an intial on-site consultation from the engineer for little to no cost. I'm sure there are other sources you can contact as well and if I were you, I would ask the fire department or the engineer where else you should inquire. Good Luck

Scott, It's quite feasible to build your house that way. I was the starting Superintendent on a 10,000 s.f. house that the owner was paying for the construction in cash. Cash talks with subcontractors. He built his house for under $ 350,000 using cash to pay his subcontractors and suppliers. This house had a 10,000 s.f. slab with a 1800 s.f. basement that also housed a private shooting range. The going rate at the time for carpenters was 5.50/s.f. for framing. He got it framed for 3.00/s.f. because he paid in cash. Uncle Sam stayed out of the loop for the whole project. He took his time on the project as well. It took him about two years to complete and from what his designer has told me, he added a three car detached garage to the site for very little additional expense. Most contractors will negotiate their bids with you in your favor when you explain to them that you are willing to pay in cash instead of bank draws if they will lower their bids to fit your budget. Regardless of the payment method though, make sure you still sign a contract with your subcontractors so you will be protected legally, should things "pop-up" that were not planned. As for the time limit, it's YOUR house. Take as long as you need - providing that your permits don't expire before hand. Check with your local building inspection department on how long you have once the permit is issued until your permit expires. Also ask them what will be needed to get your new permit should it expire before your project is completed. You might want to finish it quicker than you planned to avoid the hassle of re-permitting. - jim

Thomas, my only experience with UBuildIt is that I had considered opening up a franchise myself for the Austin area. However, someone has beat me to the punch. The system is essentially a construction consultant service targeted exclusively to Owner-Builders. The fees range from 4% up to 10% for each project and are based on the total cost of the project and how much involvement you, the owner, want UBuildIt to have. The program encourages current construction knowledge, however, they provide training as well. They direct O-B's in obtaining financing, permits, materials, etc. for their specific project. If you do not have subcontractors chosen, the UBuildIt consultant recommends them. These could be ones he/she has used in the past or chosen from a specific list available to the UBuildIt franchisee. They also provide all the forms that are needed over the course of the project.

Overall, if you don't have the time to do the project yourself, or feel overwhelmed by the process, then this could be the way to go. You can also check your local Yellow Pages under project management or construction management and get comparable bids from firms already doing it. Hope this helps. - Jim

Dimitry, I know Jim Walter Homes' concept sounds inviting, but before you dive into that pool consider this: The homes that the crews build for you through Jim Walters is substandard. They are built by individuals who are not specialists in any one trade, but are usually diversified in several to maximize their cash flow on the project at hand. I spent several years as an assistant superintendent for that company and my job consisted of going around and fixing the mistakes that the "carpenter" or " plumber" made to get their draws. I put quotes around their titles because that is what they wanted to be called, not what they were. Jim Walters hired people below market price and encouraged the subs to tackle what they could handle to maximize their cash flow on the homes they built. These home were usually in a county setting where inspections were not required nor encouraged. Would you hire a carpenter and then expect him to be your drywaller and roofer too? Or vice versa? The client has no control over who Jim Walters decides to hire to construct their homes, only that they will be constructed to the expected finish-out state they paid for. If you as a client are unhappy with their version of your house, you can hope that it will be repaired in punch-out or if you refuse to pay for it, you risk losing the land you put up for collateral. And Jim Walters WILL take your land. I suggest that you spend the time you think you are saving by reading the Book again, asking questions and tackling your project yourself or hire a project manager to do it for you. However, you should investigate their reputation yourself before you make your decision. Go to www.google.com and type in "Jim Walter Complaints" in the search field and read on... Good Luck

Victor,

You could also try lowes.com and select different zip codes to get your pricing. Lowe's seems to like posting some of their lumber prices on the website. I find it good for project budgeting even if I buy it elsewhere cheaper.

Jim Gobel

Hello Vinny, Instead of taking a chance on the recommendation of strangers for someone to build your house, do a little investigating on your own by contacting the local home builders association, remodelers association, or even the local chapter of the AIA might be able to recommend a good contractor. Using these associations can be an asset because they have usually screened out the fly-by-nighters and often keep track of complaints and their outcomes. I hope this helps you out a bit. Good Luck. Jim G.

Yes, you should have received an electrical plan with your design plan. This electrical plan should be based on the National Elelectrical Code (NEC) criteria but should have also included input from you for "convenience" outlets and switches out of the normal layout schematic. Panel location should be noted as well as junction boxes for your equipment contractors to hook up to.

This basic layout is the starting tool for your electrician to base his bid off of. He/she would then discuss outlet/switch height, total load expected, speciality lighting, like 12v systems, future add-ons, etc. with you so they can properly bid the project and ensure that when they are done, you will be able to use your house.

Unless your designer is new to the game or is trying to nickel and dime you, I would insist on them providing you this plan. It is their job to know the design criteria, whether that is building or electrical code. That is why they charge what they do. Unless you're getting your plans for less than $1.00/s.f., I would want to know what exactly is included in a set of plans. The less they charge, the less they know usually, unless they were starving like I was. (I no longer design for profit).

An Architect usually charges $1.50 to $4.00 a s.f., but then you are getting someone who has the power and gets the respect and you are paying for their training and opinion. Plus they usually have some interior design background to work out the design details with you and your family.

ANYBODY can be a designer. Anyone who has a cad package, either over the counter or professional can design and sell homes. Doesn't make them code-compliant and the flow may not even work, but if they can sell it, they will. Some designers don't even know what a full construction set consists of but they will sell you their service anyway and then charge you extra for what you should have gotten as a base set.

The only EASY answer here is to get your designer to provide the electrical plan, have that plan checked out by three electricians, then have the designer make those changes prior to final printing so EVERY bidder can bid the TURN-KEY project exactly the same. Goes the same for all the other subs as well.

I wish you well with your designer. Be wary should they want to manage your project. I see more nickel and diming on the horizon with no accountability should things be designed wrong.

Good Luck.

Kabot, On your search for custom windows, you can try Pella wood windows, Kolbe & Kolbe, and Marvin Windows. All of these manufacturers offer large format windows and can customize any window to fit your needs. I have shopped for windows for a recent client and found that the Kolbe & Kolbe dealer guaranteed to beat both Pella and Marvin Windows on price and service. Their clad product had a far better warranty than either of the other two. He also installs his own product and guarantees his installation throughout the building phase. This was nice in that you weren't at the mercy of the framer to install the windows during his dry-in. Wood windows are far to expensive for framer "OOPS". I hope this helps with your search. Good Luck. - Jim G.

Sounds like your architect can offer you those services as well. He/she should have a list of various builders they have worked for in the past that they can recommend or guide you to someone who can help.

Other than a perk test for your septic system, you should also have your soil tested by a geotechnical firm to aid your structural engineer in designing your foundation.

And be sure that whomever you hire to construct your house, they employ a surveyor to properly place your house on your lot. Last thing you need to be told is that your house is too close to something and you have to move it.

good luck!

Kabot, The best way to find a designer to fit your budget would be to contact the local chapter of the AIBD - American Institute Of Building Design. This can eliminate good designers who are not members of the institute, however. If you are looking for someone to do the drafting, you can seek out drafting companies as well. If you are seeking a substantially reduced rate, you can take your chance with a student from one of the local cad colleges. The Northridge campus of ACC teaches Autocad, and more specifically residential drafting. Some of these students are quite capable of cranking out your plans without the substantial increase in price you will get with a designer or architect. If you know exactly what you want and don't need creative input or design modifications to ease construction costs, then this is what I would persue. In any case, good luck with your quest.

cindy, Have you considered taking your ideas to a local Architectural drafter? They can assemble your plans into a workable format at a substantial savings. Given that you know what you basically want, an architect or designer may be too costly to use. You should also consider utilizing a garage/apartment setup. This would allow you to keep the house small but add two additional bedrooms for your children when they come to visit. The space over garages is usually used for storage. Most homecenters (Home Depot, Lowes) have books that have plans for garages with living spaces above. These can be modified alot cheaper to fit your needs then designing from scratch. As for your builder's bid, make sure you get a detailed, TURN-KEY bid. Turn-key is the complete, no hidden costs price of building your project. Good Luck. Jim

I would have to say its the water table. Building a basement with a high water table is like building a pool under your house. It will leak more often and will be hard to keep dry altogether.

Being not from there i would also have to guess the soil is a bit sandy, allowing for more slab movement.

A slab is what it is: a thick slab of concrete with re-inforcing steel (rebar) or cables on predetermined beams around the perimeter and at specific intervals within the slab area, usually under load-bearing walls. The walls rest directly on the slab and any flooring is directly attached to the slab as well. If wood floors are to be installed, then the slab is deepened in those areas so that the finish floor is level with the rest of the house.

As for you going with Pergo, if you have a high traffic lifestyle, I suggest you stick with real wood. Pergo is nothing more than wood looking wall paper on a stable backing surface. Eventually it will wear out. Wood only gets better with age and can be easily repaired with a damp wash cloth and an iron or by sanding and refinishing.

attached are some standard construction details that I use that may help you understand the difference between the two types of foundations.

gladys,

look under drafting services in your local yellow pages or online here: http://www.magicyellow.com/category/Drafting_Services/Morristown_TN.html

that is Tennessee's online yellow pages. I only searched under 'drafting services', but i am sure you can find what you need here to help you out.

You should also look here: http://www.aibdtn.com/members.htm

This is the Tennessee site for the AIBD - American Institute of Building Design. Your drafter/designer should be a member of this. Kind of like architects being a member of the AIA - American Institute of Architects.

Regardless of who you choose, be sure to check references, good and bad. And make sure you interview them thoroughly. I highly suggest buying Special Report 22 Designer Interviews. Print link here: http://www.ownerbuilderbook.com/bookstore/itemdetail.cfm?itemid=55

Whoever you choose, be sure to get along with them and be comfortable with telling them what to design and what to correct.

I wish you all the patience and diligence to see this through.

Good luck!

Jim Gobel

Thomas, A good overall source for finding material and labor costs is using a RS MEANS catalog available in bookstores or library www.rsmeans.com. They seemed to have cornered the market for cost comparison guides. The guide has city cost adjustment factors and is based on last year?s figures for labor and materials. They are also available in CD format if you choose. Here are a couple of internet links for construction cost estimating sites: www.construction-cost.com and www.bidshop.org.

The second site has several links to free estimating demo sites that may fit your needs. I downloaded one from www.eolnow.com that is a full version with limited report printing capabilities. Since I only need it for one house, this should suffice.

For starters, i am NOT an architect. I do home designs and mainly dream home drafting. That is, I assemble construction sets for people who know what they want, have sketches, pictures, etc and just need someone to put it in a format that can be bid on and eventually built. Unlike most Architects and Designers, I have actual construction experience. Thats the way i think: I build in my head as i draft. Helps curtail building problems and change orders. As for the subs, it would be best if you got a hold of the local AGC chapter or remodelers association for references. Although these subs could go there, you would be getting charged a premium for travel and the like. As with any contractor, subs out of their normal working environment are going to pass the costs of doing business elsewhere to maintain their profit base. Your ICF system supplier seems to have a decent product. Their website has spec's and details in AutoCAD format for download into drawings. Very convenient. I have a client thats looking to build with ICF and I have checked out several systems. My e-mail address is jgobel_1999@yahoo.com write me there and i'll help you as much as i can. take care.

Jen,

Check out agfirst.com they might be able to give you a decent rate as well. We are using them to purchase some hunting land in central Texas.

Jim Gobel

Nick, answer to question about doors: click on the door with pointer and grab (with left mouse button) arrow on the door itself. Hold mouse button down, then close door then let go of mouse button. Click on door again and this time grab side of door where originally hinged and while holding mouse button down again, swing to the side you want the door to swing on then let go of the button. Answer to foundation question: on first floor, go to build, then foundation button. Choose footings option but don't change anything else yet. Click OK. Then choose 'derive from first floor plan' then OK. You will have a new foundation room on layer '0'. Double click on the room created and name it garage. On the floor height box, adjust the negative value until the ceiling height is where you want it. As for the name 'garage', double click on the name itself and rename it to basement or whatever. Garage is a default room in the program that automatically adds a slab to it. For your third question, you might be stuck. I know the full program, chief architect, has the ability to make rooms in the attic without making the attic a separate floor. You might try to contact the chief architect people and ask them about your specific problem. Providing you actually purchased that particular program, they should be willing to help. Good luck

I would suggest hiring a local soils or 'geotechnical' lab to do some borings and a soils report on your property you plan on building on. This report will let the structural engineer know what they are dealing with when it comes to your foundation issues and where the water table is as well.

I would also call the county to see who inspects or permits for septic systems and then call them to address any previous problems that may have arose during construction that could have been avoided if properly designed for. I would alsoi check here for a local designer: aibd.org/consumers or with the local American Institute of Architects (AIA) for someone familar with the area and its quirks to avoid the possibility of change orders in the field.

I would also check with the locals if possible for the worst known weather conditions for where you are going to build and design for that possibility to arise again. It will and you want to be prepared for it when it does.

Finally, check with the local hardware or building supplier - must be a local, not national. Buy him/her a coffee and get their opinion on who the best people are for each of the systems you will need: foundation, electrician, framers, etc. These people have heard all the horror stories and the excuses and know who is worth the time and the money. They may not even be customers of theirs, but they are who they would use if they were going to build.

One more thing: Learn the lingo if your going to do the job yourself or hire someone local if you can't handle the time it will take. The subs can spot a novice and sometimes if work is scarce, the temptation is there to take advantage of the lack of experience to get the most for their time with you. Volunteering at the local Habitat is the cheapest and the fastest way but not areas have them.

Beautiful land. I wish you the best with your project. Nice place to retire.

jeanne, Jim again. thought i would pass on this ICF website to you. http://www.rastratexas.com/ These folks are suppliers and installers in the Austin area but do provide material nationwide. I was quoted a price for FORMS ONLY at $ 3.50 each. The material was very user friendly and could even be shaped with a chainsaw to achieve arched doorways. What i didn't like about the system was that the concrete had only 3/8" aggregate and had to be very wet to make it into all the various voids. Unless you had a testing lab on site to verify water additions for each concrete load, the ability for the concrete contractor to add too much water was too great for the average owner-builder to monitor. I used to be a concrete inspector and tester for a local lab and have found that most concrete contractor's help LOVE to add water to make thier job easier, regardless of the chance of making the mud too weak to support the structure it was designed for. In any ICF system, the overall cured concrete quality should be a very good reason to hire a testing lab to monitor concrete placement. They work for you the owner, not the contractor. A good firm will perform a water/cement ratio on at least three trucks to let the concrete contractor know how much water they can add before the concrete loses it's design p.s.i. Sorry for the lengthy response, but it was necessary. Jim Gobel

Mary,

Try Ag First: AG First providing your land is in the rural part of your location. These folks are good and don't report to the credit bureaus so purchasing more than one piece may be possible for investing purposes. Land is a hot commodity around here so a few friends and I are buying hunting land and parceling them out for hunters to use. 3 years ago land was for $1000/acre, now typical is $2500 to $3500/acre, regardless of where it is at.

The bank can also loan you the funds for your house if you so choose to go that way.

Jim

Since a floorplan isn't available to help you brainstorm, I suggest going with a ventless washer dryer combo like this one: us.lge.com/Product

This completely eliminates the dryer vent and should be more efficient as well. You should also be eligible for some rebates from your Utility Company should they offer them.

Other than that, your options are limited to what you have given us to work with. If you have the plan electronically, save it as a pdf file and load it so we can take a look. Make sure to put "Not for Construction" somewhere on the plan to protect your design, or blackblock out the plan will do too.

Otherwise, IRC 2003 code won't let you go over 25' on a straight run, and much less for each 45 degree and 90 degree bends. Redesign is your only other option other than the new appliance.

Good Luck!

Jim Gobel

Laura, The $5500.00 bid for insurance more than likely includes his cost for builders risk insurance for your project. In any case, call him and have him break that figure down in writing to help you understand it better. If its on the up and up, he will have no problem explaining the charge. Also, you should be charging a deposit for your bid plans so you can get them back after they bid. I like to keep plans myself, I am sure others do too. Copies get expensive. For each bid that you get, make sure they are turn-key and that each one is basically bidding the same items. This will help you budget better as well as let you know what is NOT being bid on. If the bidders are willing, try to get them to breakdown each subs' bid into specific categories to make sure nothing is being left out. Once again, these subs bids should be turn-key as well. That is, nothing is left out waiting for a change order down the road. Good luck with your project. Jim G.